AG Reviews: The Coral Room at The Bloomsbury Hotel

The New Year invariably sparks proclamations of new leaves to be turned over, of lifestyles being overhauled and of vice and bad habit being abandoned forever – or at least for a month or so.

And while I’m not here to tempt you off the path of righteousness, I am here to tell you about a seriously indulgent and sumptuously decorated cocktail bar a mere two minutes’ walk from Tottenham Court Road station, should you find yourself in the mood for a little temptation.

The Coral Room is an impressive, high-ceilinged example of country grandeur in the heart of the city. Part of the equally striking Grade II-listed Bloomsbury Hotel, which opened in 1932, the bar reflects the heritage of the building beautifully; five bespoke Murano glass chandeliers hang from the ceiling, and its distinguishing coral coloured walls are adorned with 36 artworks by British illustrator Luke Edward Hall.

We were welcomed warmly by one of the staff members, all of whom were attentive, friendly and dressed to kill in velvet teal blazers. There was a pleasant level of hubbub from other tables and smooth jazz filtering through the clatter of cocktail making over by the bar. The warmth of the greeting was enhanced a few degrees by a complimentary glass of English sparkling wine, which was brought over with the menus. Inside the menu – which I will get to, I promise – was a small note about the bar’s support of small English wineries, and how they have a rotating menu showcasing the best of these independent producers across the country. As nice a touch, I thought, as the welcome glass of the stuff itself.

If you have come to a cocktail bar to drink wine, you’ll be well looked after. There’s a reasonable list with plenty of choices around the £30 mark, a very interesting Gewürztraminer at £50, and nothing straying north of £195.

But if it’s cocktails you’re after, you really have come to the right place. Rather than talking us through the entire menu, which I have had to endure elsewhere, our waiter asked us the sorts of things we liked and made choices for us based on those preferences. In an odd way if felt a bit like having your fortune told – revealing a little bit about yourself to a stranger in order to receive some sort of gratifying reward.

In my case, that reward came in the form of an intense little number called The New Smoke: Johnnie Walker Double Black, Angostura Amaro, lemon juice, syrup, egg white, and Sassy Cider Poiré served in a tall glass. This is an old school smoky, delicious cocktail that sits comfortably somewhere between Mad Men and Sex in the City.

The Going Out Out – named in homage to Micky Flanagan’s now notorious stand up sketch – packs an equally smoky yet somehow refreshing punch, and was so good we were left with no choice but to have two of them. But for those into fresher, fruitier flavours, the menu has plenty of gin-based spritzes and vodka-appley concoctions.

We were brought a sharing platter which consisted of manchego cheese and truffle honey, Devils On Horseback, sausage roll and relish truffle, and parmesan fries. For those of you like me who have never heard of Devils on Horseback, they’re a different take on pigs in blankets – usually prunes, but in this case medjool dates, stuffed with a bit of blue cheese and wrapped in bacon. They were outstanding, and so inspiring and moreish that the next day we made a batch of our own. At £25, the platter is a perfectly sized accompaniment to the drinks. You won’t be fit to burst, but you won’t be needing any dinner either.

There is a lovely secluded little terrace cut off from public view by foliage, which come summer will be alive with Aperol drinkers and cigar lovers. But for me, with its big comfy sofas and roaring fires, the Coral Room fits this time of year like a glove.

So while some of you will be taking dry January very seriously – and hats off to you – I will be using it as an excuse simply to drink less frequently at far classier establishments like this.