The English idyll is well defined: a country pub with a beer garden; a shepherd’s hut overlooking a pond; ancient oak trees; and a field of sheep quietly grazing. The village of Hambledon in the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty has it all, but with one noticeable difference: those aren’t sheep in the field, they are llamas!
Less than an hour south of London, the Merry Harriers dates back to the 16th century. There’s a roaring open fire in the bar, a good line up of craft beers and local ciders, and well behaved dogs are just as welcome as their owners. In fact, you’ll even find a barrel marked “Doggy Beer” by the door.
The Rooms at Merry Harriers
It’s possible to stay within the inn, but this season Merry Harriers have also launched five handbuilt shepherd’s huts in the fields across the road. They are situated in a semi circle around the pond, and each one is painted a different heritage shade. Hut 5 — my home for two nights — overlooks a huge oak tree begging to be climbed, and also a paddock with horses.
The scene might seem rural from the outside, but the interior of the huts is anything but: this shepherd clearly has a flair for interior design. The wood panelling is painted in cream, duck egg blue, and the palest hue of green, whilst brightly printed floral blinds add a flash of stronger colour. The bed is huge, with thick Egyptian cotton sheets and a colourful array of cushions, including one with the inn’s signature llamas (more about them later!). There’s a comfortable seating area with fluffy sheepskin covered chairs, and a miniature log burner which pumps out a great deal of heat on a chilly evening.
Though a shepherd’s hut is inevitably compact, this one is particularly well designed and never feels cramped. There’s ample space for a kitchenette, and the en suite shower room is larger and better equipped than many I’ve seen in a bricks and mortar building. The brand new towels and dressing gowns were thick and soft, and the Gilchrist & Soames soaps, body wash, and shampoo add a further touch of luxury to the experience.
Enjoy a Scenic Walk with Llamas
The Surrey Hills offers some of the most scenic walks in the south of England, and you can strike out straight from the inn. But here in Hambledon, you needn’t walk alone: Merry Harriers offers some furry rambling companions, and their company will be the highlight of any trip.
The Hambledon llama herd lives just outside the back gate of the pub: you can watch them whilst enjoying a pint in the garden. But the best way to get to know them is to take them for a walk, guided and assisted by llama keeper Matt.
My llama companions for the morning were Louis and Mungo, both of whom were born here and have been socialised with people since an early age. They’re both now in their early teens, playful, and — particularly in Louis’ case — easily distracted by food.
Matt has a wealth of llama knowledge, and an engaging warmth which makes you eager to know more. We led the llamas out of the field on a rope, and already he was filling my mind with all manner of facts: llamas have three stomachs and no top teeth; they can choose when to give birth, and are mighty picky about it; and if two males get into a fight, the attack move of choice is to bite off the opponent’s testicles. Yikes.
Thankfully, both Louis and Mungo were placid. When they got their heads into a particularly tasty patch of grass or gorse, there was no dragging them away — they’re solidly built and stubborn. We moved at a sedate pace through the forest, past pretty houses and gardens, and then on to one of the most glorious viewpoints in Surrey. Matt’s chatter was charming and engaging, and he clearly has a strong affinity with the llamas.
Seasonal Food at Merry Harriers
A gentle three hour circuit brought us back to Merry Harriers in time for late lunch in the garden. Chef Sam sources as many ingredients as possible within a 15 mile radius of the pub; a sign above the bar encourages locals to sell him what they’ve grown, foraged, or hunted.
We chose the meat and vegetable sharing platters — fresh, seasonal, and delicious — and sat outside in the sunshine. The appropriately named “Legless Llama” was the perfect accompaniment, though as signature cocktails go, they don’t come much more potent. An afternoon nap was required!
Shepherd’s Huts at the Merry Harriers cost £195 per night for B&B. Llama treks start from £55 per person.
Sophie Ibbotson is an entrepreneur, writer, and lover of wild places. She’s the author of five Bradt Guides, including the first guidebook to South Sudan, and provides tourism development consultancy through her company, Maximum Exposure.
