It can’t have taken Gonçalo Pessoa long to dream up the name for the rolling elegance of this secluded 17-hectare estate in Portugal’s Alentejo region. The former TAP Portugal pilot originally bought the land in 2002 to build a private family home, which worked well for them until a lightbulb moment inspired him to put down the flying goggles and try his hand at hospitality. As the developments started and the first guest houses began to spring up, Pessoa must have looked around at the surrounding pine forest, sand dunes and verdant brushland and realised that ‘sublime’ was really the only word that would suffice.
Inside Sublime Comporta
Entering the main building of Sublime Comporta is like being welcomed to an elegant dinner party by your best, most handsome friend. We were sat down and given an eloquent history of the estate by our softly-spoken host. This main building was where it all began, the original family home from which the hotel grew. Wood panelling runs from floor to ceiling apart from the two exposed brick pillars, at the bottom of which are enormous hearths for the winter months – temperatures in December dip down to chilly 14 degrees, don’t you know.
A staircase leads down to an impressive wine cellar, where regular tastings are held with a choice of five wine experiences covering everything from Portugal’s fortified wines to the Moscatel wines of the Setubal region on the west coast. The resort’s main restaurant is back up on the ground floor behind a huge curtain. It’s name, Sem Porta (without doors), is both a play on the hotel’s name and indicative of its welcoming attitude.
Not knowing how far it was to our room and not wanting to take any risks, we hopped on a golf buggy and were driven to our part of the estate. The drive took about 45 seconds and was totally unnecessary, but it was great to know the option was there and the staff were very happy to oblige. Our room turned out to be part of a beautiful three-room ‘cabana’ villa complete with communal pool, living area and kitchen. There was one family there when we arrived, who left almost immediately afterwards.
Deciding not to take it personally we revelled in the contemporary design of our room and made the most of having the pool all to ourselves. Tempted as we were to do a stint in the air conditioned gym before dinner, and much as the idea of a set or two of tennis appealed to me, there was something about lying by a gorgeous pool in the hot sun with a glass of wine and no one else around that overrode all other urges.
Sublime sustainability
Due to the thoughtful layout of the estate, which maximises privacy and places great importance on giving guests their own space, it’s difficult to believe the extent of the hotel’s facilities and rooms. There are 23 rooms and suites, a variety of 22 villas, excellent spa and fitness facilities, an organic garden, an orchard and a forest garden.
Within the layout and design, a great emphasis has been placed on sustainability. This is apparent in everything from the wastewater treatment, LED lighting and solar-powered heating, to the fact that many of the villas were constructed around the trees in order to avoid any deforestation.
Another badge of ethical pride is visible in the hotel’s new Bio-pool suites. Drawing design inspiration from the fishing villages of Comporta, these nine suites each have their own personality and give guests direct access to a private terrace overlooking one of the largest biological swimming pools in Europe. The pool is treated exclusively with aquatic plants – no chemicals – and an invigorating morning’s dip is the perfect breakfast set up.
Eating and drinking
Breakfast at Sem Porta is a relaxed affair. Eggs can be ordered in a variety of different styles and enjoyed with crispy bacon and mushrooms. There is a fabulous array of flavoured jams to stir into yoghurts or have with toast or pancakes, and bottles of vibrantly-coloured fresh juices poke out of ice buckets like arrangements of tropical flowers. Pastries, fruit, meats, cheeses and quiche are all available at the buffet too, and if what you’re after isn’t there, all you need to do is ask. The couple next to us ordered grilled flatbread and a plate of lightly oiled large tomatoes, and sure enough their wish was granted within minutes.
I recommend a light lunch from the main building’s pool bar or taken by the fire pit area which tends to be quite a social haunt. But as night falls Sem Porta is the place to be. Menu highlights include cured mackerel with seaweed mustard, swordfish and quinoa with roasted vegetables and fennel, and quail with sauteed mushrooms, nut ragout and polenta.
If you end up making friends with fellow guests over lunch at the fire pit, and fancy an extra special dining experience later on, book into the Food Circle – an intimate al fresco dining experience for 12 people in the middle of the organic garden. Watch as the chefs prepare dinner using ancestral cooking methods as you drink wine under the stars and promise your new best mate that you’ll definitely meet up when you’re back in the UK.
Find out more about Sublime Comporta
George Clode is a travel and culture writer, and a multimedia commissioning editor for travel
