The Witchery By The Castle in Edinburgh’s Historic Old Town

The Witchery by The Castle is celebrated as one of the world’s most romantic destinations. It has been described as “The Perfect Lust Den” by Danni Minogue, “One of the Seven Wonders of the World” by Cosmopolitan, and the “Most Glamorous Hotel in Town” by The Independent.

The Witchery is as much a destination restaurant as a place to stay. This outrageously theatrical restaurant with rooms is perfectly located at the top of the Royal Mile next to Edinburgh Castle screams luxury and opulence. The ornate building dates from 1595, and its romantic, gothic decor, sumptuously decadent is an antique dealer’s dream—but minimalists, be warned!

The richly decorated suites beguile in velvets, and brocades, four-poster beds, and stylistic decadent bathrooms, invite you into a bye-gone era, one of sheer and unadulterated luxury. Yet, with all the modern amenities we expect, and more, Alexa your voice-controlled personal assistant is at your beck and call for the duration of you stay—and to get you in the mood, a bottle of chilled bubbly awaits your arrival.

The Witchery’s History

The Witchery was founded by James Thomson OBE, now in its fifth decade takes its name from the hundreds burned at the stake as witches on Castlehill during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries when accusations of witchcraft were rife—targeted merely for their herbal remedies, folk medicine and healing.

The hysteria and obsession with finding and punishing witches—known as the ‘Satanic panic’ was sparked by King James the VI of Scotland, who considered himself an expert in witchcraft, believing he was the Devil’s greatest enemy on earth.

Dining at The Witchery

Two fabulous restaurants make for a difficult choice—to dine in the rich baroque surroundings of the original dining room or in the elegant candlelit charms of the Secret Garden. Breakfast can be enjoyed by candlelight in the Witchery or in your room at your dining table, another difficult choice, both are gorgeous.

SCOTLAND’S MOST FAMOUS RESTAURANT AND BEST-KEPT SECRET, THE WITCHERY

The Witchery is a spectacularly atmospheric dining destination and a much-loved institution. Dining in the richly baroque surroundings of the original dining room steeped in Scottish history and glowing with flickering candlelight from the myriad candelabra is a truly memorable experience with its gilded leather screens, tapestries hung on the seventeenth-century oak panelling, and the heraldic painted and guilded ceiling.

Head Chef Douglas Roberts and his team of passionate foodies create seasonal menus, serving the very finest Scottish ingredients, including Scottish game from Perthshire, the finest Scottish beef from the Borders and the freshest seafood from the clear waters of the West Coast, along with ingredients form local artisan suppliers. Expect menus featuring classic dishes such as Omelette Arnold Bennet, which I can vouch is truly moorish.

Start with Baerii 6* caviar (Siberian Sturgeon Caviar) served with blinis and crème fraiche, and Findlay’s of Portobello haggis, turnip Bhaji, pineapple chutney. Followed by Fillet of Stone bass, Shetland mussels, cider, bacon & creme fraiche, roasted salsify, pine emulsion, and for two, Chateaubriand “aligot potatoes”, grilled gem, Serrano and parsley and Café de Paris butter, again simply wonderful, and Balmoral Estate Roe deer wellington, warmed pea puree, broad beans & steamed new potatoes.

THE SECRET GARDEN

Entering via the pulpit reception you descend the stone stairs, to the enchanting candlelight room, where a fabulous hand-painted ceiling in typical Scots vernacular style portrays imagery from the tarot, with mischievous bagpipe-playing cherub, and angels with bagpipes. The painted doors and panels depict elements of Edinburgh’s ancient wine trade with France, which the Witchery upholds today along with a rare Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence among its many accolades.

THE WITCHERY’S AFTERNOON TEA

Served in both restaurants this is a sumptuous affair. Expect delicious sandwiches and cakes piled high on silver cake stands. Sandwich fillings include Edinburgh Gin cured salmon with dill creme fraiche on rye bread and a brioche bun with egg and cress. Sweet treats include baked scones, dragon cake and rich chocolate tart. All served with your choice of specially selected loose-leaf tea or bubbles.

THE WINE AND WHISKEY CELLAR

The wine list at The Witchery has long been regarded as the best in Scotland, and a fabulously extensive selection is available.

The Suites at The Witchery

The Witchery’s nine fabulously original and lavish individually designed suites each with unique quirks and charms, oodles of glamour, and luxury are brimful with antiques, opulently draped beds and roll-top bathtubs. They are truly indulgent.

Our home for the night, The Turret Suite is a fabulously decadent hideaway at the top of turnpike stairs that envelopes you into its comfortable depths, and the bathroom is quite simply divine.

The Witchery is an unforgettably magical experience, with an utterly unique narrative-driven escapism, that is transportive and bewitching, with an ineffable ambience, charm and comfort.

A destination hotel embracing a point of differentiation in their culture and heritage, providing an authentic sense of place, and a sense of playfulness—that George Bernard Shaw’s poignantly reminds us, “We don’t stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing”. Suspend reality for a while and ‘hang’ out in one of the divinely decadent suites.

IN SUMMARY

I may forgo my minimalist leanings! The Witchery is an extraordinary destination, a gorgeously gothic extravaganza, immersed in historic Edinburgh. No wonder the guest list reads like a Who’s Who of celebs who have made this their Edinburgh home from home. My only niggle, is how can I live without Alexa?

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Anji Connell
Anji Connell

An internationally recognised interior architect and landscape designer, she has worked on numerous projects around the world. An eye for detail and love of all things art, architecture, travel and design have led to a nomadic lifestyle resulting in a greater focus on travel and lifestyle feature writing. She is a contributor for a range of international print publications. Living between Hong Kong, Cape Town, and London, traveling anywhere.

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